Where to Stay on Koh Samui: the Island Coast by Coast

Koh Samui changes character every few kilometres. Here is the island coast by coast, from the beach clubs of Chaweng to the calm bays of the north-east and the wellness retreats of the south, with the resorts, tables and bars we list on each.

Koh Samui is small enough to drive round in an afternoon, yet each stretch of its coast feels like a different island. The east is long and lively, the north-east tip is a string of calm, sheltered bays, the north coast looks across the water to Koh Phangan, and the south is quieter still, given over to coves, cliffs and wellness. Pick the coast that suits your trip first; the hotel follows.

Remember the season, too. The Gulf runs to its own calendar: driest from January, and wettest from October to December, just as the Andaman coast comes into its best season.

The north-east: calm bays

The north-east tip is where Samui is easiest. It is close to the airport, and its bays are sheltered. On Choeng Mon, SALA Samui has private pool villas near the sand, and Absolute Sanctuary runs wellness and longevity programmes. Around the corner on Thongson Bay, Melati Beach Resort suits families who want calm water and a quiet beach away from the crowds.

Chaweng: the lively heart

Chaweng is Samui’s longest and busiest beach, with the island’s nightlife on the sand. ARKbar runs DJs, pool parties and nightly fire shows on the beachfront. Above Chaweng Noi, at the southern end, The Jungle Club is a barefoot hilltop restaurant with one of the island’s great views. Bangkok Hospital Samui is close by, which matters if you are travelling with children.

Lamai and the south-east

Between Chaweng and Lamai, the coast turns rocky and dramatic. The Cliff Bar & Grill has served seafood from its clifftop here since 2004, and Silavadee puts pool villas on the rocks above the sea. Lamai itself is a long, easy-going beach, with the curious granite boulders of Hin Ta Hin Yai; Beach Republic sits at its northern end, and Rocky’s Resort has its own quiet coves in the Lamai–Maret area.

Choose your coast before you choose your hotel: on Samui, ten minutes’ drive can take you from fire shows to silence.

The north coast

The north coast looks across the water to Koh Phangan. Bophut is home to Kimpton Kitalay, and nearby Wat Phra Yai, the Big Buddha founded in 1972, is one of Samui’s best-known sights. At Bang Rak, Chi Samui has a swim-up bar and a saltwater infinity pool, and Supattra Thai Dining serves Thai fine dining from Tuesday to Saturday evenings.

Wellness in the south

For a retreat rather than a holiday, look south. Kamalaya, on Laem Set Road, is a wellness sanctuary whose programmes are built around personal goals, from detox and gut renewal to sleep and longevity. Ang Thong Marine National Park, about 20 kilometres offshore, makes the island’s great day trip by boat.

Our advice

Our advice: for a first visit with children, the sheltered north-east bays are hard to beat; for nightlife, Chaweng; for romance, the cliffs between Chaweng and Lamai. Whichever coast you choose, a car or taxi is the way to explore, and the island is small enough to dine on a different coast every night.